I’m not sure when it happened, but at some point every restaurant had Pasta alla Vodka on the menu. It's like the powers of pasta world suddenly decided this was the new, hip way to make tomato sauce.
Isn't Vodka Flavorless?
That's the weird part! We understand wine in Italian food, whether it's a big, bold red in tomato sauce or Balsamic vinegar (which starts as wine) drizzled over tomatoes.
But vodka? It's counter-intuitive, but it definitely changes the sauce. It first tastes peppery, and then has herbal flavors you just don't expect. Clearly, vodka is only supposedly flavorless, because you can totally taste the difference.
Here's The Science Bit
And when that happens, there’s one great place to turn: Harold McGee’s “On Food and Cooking.” (Really, if you’re interested in the how-and-why of cooking, you want this book. It’s a great reference.)
Here’s what he has to say about cooking with alcohol and flavor:
While large amounts of alcohol tend to trap other volatile molecules in the food, small traces boost their volatility and so intensify aroma.
This means that undiluted alcohol overpowers natural flavors, but smaller traces (typically achieved by “burning off” the vodka) actually release new flavors. So it’s not that vodka adds flavor, it's that it unlocks flavors already hidden in the tomato. Pretty cool, huh?
How It Works
The trick is to add the vodka, then get rid of all but a trace of the alcohol so it unlocks those flavors. I always want to do this by lighting the alcohol on fire. It looks so cool, right?
Nope. It doesn't work. As a matter of fact, a "flambe" leaves nearly 75% of the alcohol.
What really works is slowly simmering the sauce. This leaves only 5% of the alcohol**, perfect for releasing all those peppery, herbal flavors.
So, it’s real: vodka really does change the taste of tomato sauce, and it’s really, really good. So give one of these recipes a try:
**If you’re worried about the presence of alcohol in the pasta sauce, it’s good to know that while 5% is very little spread out over the whole sauce, it is not all gone.
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